Audrey Oltz is the creator of the workshop tie. As its name suggests, this is a young brand that sells neckties and bow-made butterflies, entirely hand-made in a workshop in Lyon. It also offers accessories for women like that no jealousy.
You are aware that Lyon is the historic capital of silk. This proximity allows Audrey to choose the finest materials and beautiful patterns. But his choice does not end with silk, Audrey selects for you playing on materials and textures to create ties (and Bow) original. I leave you now in the hands of the expert who will present the making of the tie made in the workshop to tie. It’s a bit technical, but I assure you it is very understandable
Ties are hand-made in a workshop with a sewing kit: a boss, a pair of scissors, a chalk, a sewing machine, different tissues, a thimble, the son and needles.
The selection of fabric
The choice of fabric is crucial in the making of a tie. The quality of its frame stiffens the tie but also ensures flexibility.
The vast majority of ties are lined with a thick fabric called Fleece cotton, or interlining. Although invisible, this component is important in making the tie. Its thickness and how it will work, will determine the visual rendering of the tie and generous appearance by creating a slight curve. There are very upscale without batting ties that are built with a simple silk scarf folded seven times, but the prices are very high (Julien Scavini speaks very well here ).
The thin tie, called Slim
The boss (= the “plan” paper of the tie which is used to make) provides regularly cut the outer fabric and ensures a constant width of 5 cm for the wide end (= the part of the visible tie to your chest when she is tied). The small pan, one that allows the knotting the necktie is narrower allowing total discretion at the collar and slip into the rear attachment while maintaining the tie.
Reserved there are still a few years to effect knitting ties, now the “square” fits all the materials used on a tie. Thus, one can end all ties with a square shape and blunt, which gives a nice twist. this finish is adapted to all models while taking into account the properties of flexibility and keeping materials (leather, lightweight fabric etc). Indeed, a silk will not react like a wool! Sewing for drawing a horizontal line at the end of the tie is formed inside so as to be as unobtrusive as possible.
There are two methods of manufacture according to the selected fabric (knit or cotton wool) and the desired rendering.
The knitted tie
The first shows the manufacturing processes of the knitting tie, which always ends with a square section.
Originally, it is crafted with a knit tube then sewn at the ends to give the square. The principle here is developed to reproduce this textile tube with a rectangular piece of cloth, like the sweater (below).
￼On form a fabric tube with the aid of a sewing machine (1), both ends of the tie are sewn so as to close the tube (2) and then returns the tie such a sock by the opening formed in the seam of the tube (3). Note: the images are numbered below.
Once the return tie, it is closed by hand by a single seam with running a breakpoint. And you are ready to make a beautiful knot!
The tie handmade and bespoke
The second technique relies more on sewing techniques in hand and the same processes as for traditional triangular tip ties.
Step 1: It is undoubtedly the most important element in making the tie. Tracing using a good old chalk profile of the tie on the fabric from patterns drawn in cardboard ensures cutting accuracy.
￼ Step 2: From the designed route, cutting the tissue can be difficult depending on the quality of the material and its thickness. It is therefore to respect scrupulously the chalk drawing to meet the model of the profile created. Indeed, all tissues do not react the same way to the passage of a cutting blade: some curling, others are resisting… The key is do not rush!
Step 3: Each of the elements having been drawn and cut, we must now assemble them, one after another large pan, neck and finally small pan.
Step 4: We begin here finishes. How they will be carried out will determine their quality and discretion. A good seam is a seam that is not seen or at least not noticeable.
Step 5: Inserting the cotton interlining which will stiffen the tie while ensuring his batting. It must be dimensioned that room so it generates no tension or allowance. Sizing is critical since structure the tie and give it a real presence!
Step 6: We start sewing the tie (using the same wire for the whole tie).
Step 7: It sews the hem on the full length on the side which is clearly visible and not to be against your chest.
Step 9: We finish the seam with a breakpoint, which is a technique for optimal finish.
Step 10: Finally, we end with the seam of the flange / inner holder.
Benedict: Now you know how is made a nice tie. To go further in the port of the tie is here. Know that neckties for sale are available on its website at around 50-60 euros with multiple customization options, which would please the most demanding of you. Given the quality of preparation and the possibility of customization, this is a very good price / quality ratio.
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